"L'achta," a Parisian ice cream and pastry shop that showcases Lebanon's local ashta.(Credit: L'achta)
PARIS – L'achta, which opened on Saint-Martin street and then Poissonnière street, in August and November 2023 respectively, is based on the ice cream and pastry tandem, which is both widespread and popular in major Lebanese dessert brands. One of the founders, Alex Codet (Khoder in Lebanese), grew up a stone's throw from the Tripoli parent company of the famous Hallab sweets.
"I always wanted to start my own business, and when I saw the success of Lebanese ice cream in Paris, I wanted to try this adventure, by adding oriental pastries," explained the energetic young engineer.
Born in 1987, Khoder came from a different world, but one that eventually found its place. After studying chemistry, he moved to France in 2014 for his thesis. After studying IT, he decided to stay in Paris, where he worked for the company Soldis. It was with Lebanese restaurateur Bruno Hamon (Ammoun), from the Parisian Rannouch establishments, that Khoder founded L'achta.
"I started by moving to Lebanon, where I met a Tripoli chef from Hallab who had extensive experience in this renowned establishment. He agreed to follow me ... We then found premises near Châtelet, then near the Grand Rex. Considering that ice creams would be less popular in winter, we thought about also offering hot drinks and pastries," explained the chemist. The name of the store, L'achta, has retained the article on purpose: It refers to the use of the term in Arabic (al-ashta) and became an ice cream cone in the logo.
Alex Khoder in front of his establishment. (Credit: L'achta)
Inside and outside the shop, a few wooden benches are set up for customers who want to enjoy their dessert while sitting down, in a different configuration than in traditional Parisian tea rooms. In the tubs, around fifteen flavors, including rose, pistachio and the best-seller, ashta.
“What’s incredible is that when I did my research, I discovered that there was no specific recipe for ashta ice cream, each brand has its own. Its elastic texture is particularly popular. We follow Hallab’s recipe, with a garnish of homemade crushed pistachios. For a change, the customer can opt for a cotton candy or knafeh coating, which is a mixture of angel hair and pistachio,” stated Khoder. Another flagship item in the shop is the knafeh dessert. "We prepare it continuously throughout the day, we have a lot of requests and we serve it in the traditional way, with its kaakeh. It is requested as much by Lebanese as by Parisians or tourists, and at any time!" said the entrepreneur proudly.
A taste of Tripoli
For a sweet break at L'achta, other pastries are offered: Maamoul, baklava, nammoura and tamara.
"Our main raw materials come from Lebanon, it is my father who regularly goes to get rose water and orange blossom water from individuals in Akkar and we buy sahlab in Tripoli," stated the restaurateur. "I have been working non-stop on this project for several years, every evening and every weekend, in addition to my job as an IT specialist. We have many projects in mind, including opening a new store in the south of France, in Nice or Marseille."
Next year, L'achta will further highlight the brand's eponymous ingredient, even if this will require further adjustments.
"Making ashta requires specific facilities and techniques, and we are currently organizing ourselves. We will be able to offer ashta knafeh, in addition to cheese, as well as the different variations of this product: Qatayef, mafroukeh, znoud al-sett, etc," he said.
A scientist, Khoder develops his projects and explains them in a methodical and pragmatic manner. However, when he talks about how his hometown, Tripoli, the inflection of his voice changes and quickly becomes more sentimental.
“In our shops, different designs evoke the city of Tripoli. We find many copper objects, trays, coffee pots, cups, which come directly from the souk al-nahhassin. And then the best sweets in Lebanon are made in Tripoli, nowhere else are there better maamoul. We try to live up to this quality requirement,” stated Khoder with emotion. The chemist has finally found another way to play with materials while reconnecting with the Tripolitan tradition of the dessert.
This article originally appeared in French in L'Orient-Le Jour.