Lunch at Mami. (Credit: Photo provided by the restaurant)
Located on Madrid Street, off Pharaon Street in Mar Mikhael, restaurant-bar Mami opened its doors on April 3, in the middle of the war. Behind this project dedicated to contemporary Cantonese cuisine is restaurateur and project creator Mia Noun, who made a counterintuitive bet: opening an establishment specializing in dumplings and Chinese noodles at a time when war was driving away investors and customers.
“We were supposed to open in December, but everything was delayed,” she explains. “Every time something happened in the country, certain investors would reconsider their participation.”
Yet, work had already begun in September 2024, after several months spent searching for funding and developing the concept. “We were already committed to the renovations. At a certain point, we just couldn’t keep postponing the opening.”
The project represents a total investment of about $350,000. Structured as a Lebanese joint-stock company, Mami SAL brings together five “silent” investors, while Noun oversees operational management through her management company. The establishment currently employs 15 people.
Housed in a residential building, Mami spans around 120 to 130 square meters indoors, with an added terrace seating about 30 people. The average bill ranges from $35 to $40 per person, including alcohol.
“People often order the whole menu because they don’t know what to expect,” says Noun.
The concept centers on deliberately specialized Cantonese cuisine, focusing on dumplings, noodles and dishes designed for sharing. Among the specialties are dan dan noodles, rice noodle rolls and various types of dumplings — sometimes with pork, sometimes adapted to local habits without “Lebanonizing” the recipes.
“I wanted to keep things authentic without turning the cuisine into something folkloric,” says the founder. “The idea wasn’t to create a caricature of a Chinese experience, but a place where you can grab a drink, have a quick dinner, or share a few dishes with friends.”
An accessible cuisine
This approach is also reflected in the decor, designed more like a Beirut café-bar than a traditional Asian restaurant.
“I wanted to make this cuisine accessible, in a space where people want to spend time,” she explains. “You can come just for a drink or have a salad before heading home.”
Beyond the political and economic context, the main challenge was the lack of a comparable precedent in the local market.
“Everything was based on assumptions,” says Noun. “There wasn’t really a similar model in Lebanon that would let us estimate demand.”
So far, the risk seems to be paying off. “We were pleasantly surprised by the number of people who came right from the start.”
For now, the partners want to focus on consolidating this first location before considering any expansion. Delivery projects are under consideration, while any possible openings of additional branches in Lebanon or abroad will depend on the results of the first year of operation.
“We want to see how the concept develops before going any further,” Noun concludes.
This article was translated from L'Orient-Le Jour.
