Dear reader,
It’s official. I’ve been invited to an Iftar. Technically, I invited myself, but that detail doesn’t really matter. What matters is that I’m going — and I already know I’m not fully prepared for what that means.
I’ve only been once before, at my friend’s house in Bekaa. Her whole family was there. I even met her aunt’s cousin’s husband. It was one of the best evenings I’ve had. The table overwhelmed me in the best way: dishes layered beautifully, and plates kept coming long after I thought we were done. No one was even slightly concerned with portions. Lebanese generosity meets Ramadan.
What struck me most, apart from the food, was the atmosphere. Just before the fast was broken, everything slowed. Conversations softened, steps to the table slowed and I kept checking the clock as if it were New Year’s Eve. Then, with the first sip of water and bite of a date, everything moved so fast I can’t quite remember it.
I’ll compare every future Iftar to that first one. Knowing myself, I’ll never refuse food from a Lebanese teta — that’s not how it works. The second there’s space on your plate, they notice. Lean back dramatically, insist you’re full, clutch your stomach — it won’t matter.They’ll look at you, slightly offended — I do not encourage you to reach that level — then add more anyway. Even if it’s your first meeting, she’ll treat you like you’ve been underfed by your own teta your whole life. I respect that level of loving aggression — I’ll only allow it from tetas.
As for the Iftar I’ve invited myself to this time, I’m still thinking about how I’ll behave. Will I have a plan? Yes. Will it survive past the soup? Probably not.
With Ramadan in mind, here are a few dishes that will impress a Lebanese teta: Andree Maalouf’s green fava bean fatteh, Kamal Mouzawak’s Freekeh with chicken (Freekeh bi Djej), Karim Haïdar's ossmaliyeh with persimmon, and Chef Amani’s maamouls.
Melissa Manouchakian
Distribution editor
Chef’s portrait: Dana Hallani's culinary passion surpasses musical legacy
Almost by chance, during the pandemic, daughter of singer Assi Hallani discovered her cooking talent. A business graduate of the American University of Beirut (AUB), Dana enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. After returning to Lebanon in 2023, she founded L’Etoile Privée, a startup that organizes bespoke private dining experiences.
Everything you need to know - SA7TEIN
👉 The story behind maamoul is as rich and intricate as the cookie itself. If you’re thinking of baking some for Iftar, this article is worth a read. It traces the origins of this Levantine classic, explores how its recipe has evolved across generations and borders, and reveals why no single country can truly claim it as its own.
New in Beirut
Since Jan. 27, Jihad Kfoury and his wife Joy have opened Pouloche on Sassine Street. Three years ago, the couple had already launched a branch in Hazmieh for delivery and takeaway orders. The new Pouloche marks a turning point, a shift from takeaway service to a full restaurant with table service. On the menu: French-style comfort food, featuring rotisserie dishes, brioche specialties, and gourmet sandwiches. A place to discover here.
