Approaching Rabweh and Qornet Shehwan, in Northern Metn, the fire can be smelled way before it is seen. On Tuesday, a fire broke out near the dense cluster of homes in this area, which overlooks a green valley. A strong wind was blowing across the region that day and soon the flames were out of control.
By Wednesday, three hills were burning. Civil Defense teams and Lebanese Army helicopters circled the blaze, battling it. By midday Wednesday, Civil Defense was saying the fires were more or less contained, but not yet extinguished, and there efforts were ongoing. The flames had spread to the hills opposite, overlooking the so-called "fast" Metn motorway at Jouret al-Ballout and the large Beit Misk housing development.
The fire caused the temporary closure of a number of schools in the region, including the Louise Wegmann secondary school in Jouret al-Ballout, for concerns over the health of pupils and staff. Further above, on higher ground, residents gathered to watch the as the fire spread and the firefighters chased it.
"The fire broke out suddenly in the valley below our homes, and then the flames began to multiply in several places," said Bassem*. "During the night and even this morning, we couldn't open the windows, the smoke was so dense it was like fog,"
Sylvia* looks worriedly at the ever-rising smoke. "At first, the flames came dangerously close to our houses," she says. "We took precautions, carrying wet handkerchiefs in case any children or asthma sufferers felt unwell." She claims no official entities were involved in the first few hours of the disaster.
The residents first tried to put out the fire themselves, then got together to order water tanks. "It was only when the fire got out of control that we contacted the media and the Civil Defence and the army was alerted," Sylvia says.
Water points for the helicopters
Fire engines edge as close as they can to the fire and Civil Defence has set up its mobile headquarters. Qornet Shehwan's municipal police are there alongside the many onlookers.
General Raymond Khattar, Director General of Civil Defence points to a smouldering, blackened valley. "The fire is currently limited to the area between Beit Misk and the regions of Nabay and Raboue," he says. Army helicopters are filling their water tanks from two water points set up by Civil Defence, one at the Jesus and Mary school in Qornet Shehwan, the other near the Metn motorway, on the other side of the fire.
"If they had had to go back down to the sea each time, we would have lost too much time," he says.
The overwhelming majority of fires are caused by human activity, Khattar says, whether through ignorance or arson, "bearing in mind that we are in the middle of a dangerous season because it is so dry."
Bassem is convinced the sheer number and reach of the fires is proof it was man-made. "They have to put the fire out quickly, otherwise there will be nothing left of this beautiful valley," he says.
"There's no point in spreading conspiracy theories," Sylvia says. "In any case, the result is the same."
According to Khattar, Civil Defence vehicles are spread about among the areas affected by the fire in an attempt to protect the buildings. The fire that had threatened Rue 11 in Rabweh had been completely extinguished, he said.
But for all their efforts, the fire resurged again and again. "The fire has been brought under control, although it seems to be flaring up again at times, and there is no danger to the homes," said Jean-Pierre Gebara, Chairman of the Qornet Shehwan Municipal Council, who praised the "continuous action, day and night, of the Civil Defence."
A team from the NGO Darb Akkar, from the far north of the country, also helped the Civil Defence in its battle to contain the fire.