Designs by Louteh. (Rights reserved)
One of the recurrent slogans of the Oct. 17, 2019, uprising in Beirut was “'Louteh' is not an insult.” In Lebanon, it's still common to hear a contemptuous “louteh” shouted during countless testosterone-driven fights. The word refers to Lot, a character from Genesis visited by two angels in his city of Sodom, and asked by his men "to know them." The angels tell Lot to flee without looking back and destroy the city. In the Levant, the term louteh is often used as a homophobic slur/insult.
The Paris-based creative duo Khaled El Karout and Mohamed Krayem appropriated the word louteh as a brand name heralding a fashion commitment to "minorities, the different and the oppressed." Even before its official launch, the brand has collaborated with young talents from the Middle East's LGBTQ+ community for its campaign and communication. "We also offer unique stage outfits to artists from this community. The aim is important: To bring Arab LGBTQ+ people out of the shadows and encourage them to take part in the fight so that everyone has the right to freely affirm who they are," said the designers, who assert that their main motivation is to "shake up the image of man within our society."
Khaled El Karout and Mohamed Krayem, founders of the Louteh label. (Rights reserved)
The young brand Louteh is today proud to announce its very first fashion show, which will take place on Sept. 25, 2024, during the prestigious Paris Fashion Week. The show will mark the launch of Louteh's first full collection, featuring over 20 daring looks, after a year of hard work since the brand's inception. This is an opportunity for the tandem to present their "unique and radical vision of contemporary fashion," according to their manifesto. The show will be an opportunity for Louteh to share its commitment to more inclusive, ethical and environmentally-friendly fashion.
This first collection is a tribute to a modern vision of romanticism, inspired by period clothing, Islamic art, oriental architecture and the richness of Arab cultures. "Each piece is thought to break gender stereotypes and encourage the acceptance of new styles, especially for men, reaffirming their right to wear what they wish," said the two designers.
A first collection with an empowering message. (Rights reserved)
Women have been taking pants away from men since the early 20th century. Why shouldn't men wear dresses and skirts? It was with this question in mind that the Karout-Krayem duo decided, through their designs, to "further arm men against a stereotyped, heteronormative society." Louteh wants to encourage "each individual, whoever he may be, to wear what he wants without worrying about the way others look at him." The young brand's poetic clothes are offered to men ready to assume their vulnerability by transforming it into a cuirass and their "angel's share" by dressing it against invisibility.
The design duo are determined to make their own contribution to eradicating waste in an industry reputed to be massively polluting. "Our materials are purchased or recovered through fashion houses or platforms that offer the resale of unused fabrics, in order to give them a last chance," they emphasized. They also pointed out that "the brand also collects second-hand clothes and antique furniture."
So it's hardly surprising that some Louteh items are made from upholstery fabrics. Depending on the yardage collected, models are offered in limited quantities or by pre-order. Last but not least, a made-to-measure service is being considered at Atelier 413, the address of the duo, always keen to find alternatives to over-consumption.
Louteh is still looking for funds to expand. They are thus currently launching a crowdfunding campaign, offering pre-order compensation and "an opportunity to take part in the peaceful revolution so that queer people can be proud to be louteh."
The icing on the cake was the official launch of the brand in April 2022 at Galeries Lafayette Rosny 2.
Instagram: wearelouteh and louteh.com.
This article was originally published in L'Orient-Le Jour.
