As Lebanon battles crisis, the coastal city Batroun thrives on local tourism

BATROUN — While businesses across Lebanon are fighting to survive a monumental economic meltdown, the coastal city of Batroun is thriving as a tourist destination for Lebanese whose summer plans have been scuppered by the crisis and the pandemic.

Crowds stroll along Batroun’s streets and visit its historical sites, others sunbathe on beaches and many drink their nights away despite the pandemic and their country’s financial crisis dubbed, by the World Bank as one of the deepest depressions in modern history.

“Lebanese can’t go for tourism abroad anymore,” said Maguy al-Mouhawas, a 54-year old restaurant owner.

“They find that this city embraces them and their children, it treats them like its own, and this is why there’s a bigger turnout.”

Mouhawas noted that more properties are being rented out or purchased and that more businesses are investing in Batroun, in stark contrast to the large exodus from the capital, a little more than an hour's drive away.

Lebanon’s financial crisis has wiped out jobs, propelled more than half the population into poverty and slashed 90 percent of the value of the country’s local currency.

Beirut is also still recovering from the aftermath of last year’s port blast, which killed hundreds, injured thousands and destroyed large swathes of the capital. Back in Batroun, John Bechara, who works for the municipality as a tourist guide, takes visitors on tours of the city’s ancient churches, Phoenician seawall and main monuments.

“My love for Batroun made me look at every stone, every corner and every person I meet in the streets to ask about the history, and this is how I am getting attached to my city more and more,” Bechara, 54, said.

On a random weekend or even on summer weekdays, the city’s streets, beaches, restaurants, cafes and pubs are full of life.

“This atmosphere was not created overnight. We knew our city is a touristic city par excellence. What you are seeing now is the result of 22 years of work,” said Marcelino al-Hark, the head of the Batroun Municipality.

Small businesses and famous brands are multiplying in Batroun, especially in the hospitality and food and beverage sectors. Lebanon has recently eased its coronavirus restrictions and is recording low COVID-19 daily cases.

Many Batroun residents were pleased with the hubbub, but some raised concerns about the growing crowds.

“We love people and we love gatherings. Batroun’s people have always been hospitable and generous. But it is the traffic. ... There have been many problems because of car parking,” said Elias Louka, a 67-year-old retired chef, as he walked through his neighborhood on his way to go fishing.

But Mouhawas, who described Batroun as the “oxygen” of her life, sees nothing but added value.

“Paradise without people is not worth going to,” Mouhawas said, quoting an Arabic proverb.

“Fortunately, in this economic situation, our city is thriving, so we don’t feel the economic and financial burden like others,” she said.