View from Totò's terrace. (Credit: Totò)
After a strategic pause, Totò reopens its doors in Beirut in an entirely new space, staying true to its Italian identity. On May 22, this Italian restaurant founded by Samir Tabet and Shirine Rabbath quietly reopened in a new 130-square-meter space, complemented by a 40-square-meter kitchen. But more than just a comeback, it marks a new chapter in the history of this well-known brand. "We wanted people to rediscover the soul of Totò without losing their bearings, while presenting them with new offerings that change with the seasons," explained Tabet, now also in the kitchen.
The space has been conceived as a winter garden: a permanent terrace with a retractable roof and lowering windows, offering an outdoor experience year-round. A dozen tables, two of which are directly in the open cold kitchen, make up this warm and airy setting. "This place is a natural extension of Totò's identity, with a design we created ourselves and without the involvement of an external company," said Tabet. The renovation, carried out in just two months, was a family affair.
Chef's career change
Between Totò's closure in September 2024 and its reopening this spring, Samir Tabet underwent a real career transformation. A graduate of the Glion Hotel School in Switzerland in 2005, he worked for the Four Seasons group in South America, then at the Dorchester in London, before returning to Beirut. "After opening Totò, then Pizzawa, I felt the need to refocus on cooking. I did an internship in northern Italy to understand what had changed in recent years and to get closer to my kitchen team," he recounted. This approach led him to take the reins himself in the new version of Totò.
The menu remains true to the brand's DNA, with new dishes enriching the offerings. Ingredients come half from local greenhouses (tomatoes, lettuce, parsley and cilantro) and half from Italian imports: cheeses, cold cuts, pasta, flour and risotto. The meats come from the European Union. The average bill at this restaurant, which is open five days a week (Tuesday to Saturday), for lunch and dinner is $55 per person, excluding alcohol.
All production — from pizza dough to juices, including the cleaning of vegetables and fish — is concentrated in the central kitchen of Pizzawa, another brand in the group, a few streets away. "We have nine cooks working on both brands; it's a complementary and flexible team," said the chef.
Growing company
Totò is part of the company Samsop, founded in 2010. After its first restaurant, Chez Sophie, closed in 2013, Totò emerged in Mar Mikhael before being moved to Furn al-Hayek. In 2023, Tabet and his partners launched Pizzawa, a concept of Italian street food aimed at international expansion. "We've already planned to open a Pizzawa in Deir al-Qamar, next to our greenhouses. People will be able to see where their products come from while enjoying nature," the restaurateur enthused.
The total investment for Totò, estimated at $300,000, had largely been made within the framework of Pizzawa’s development, particularly for the central kitchen. The lease for the new location is set for six years. The company opened its capital two and a half years ago to Tabet's wife, a chef, an employee and two silent partners. But the direction remains in the hands of the founder, who maintains operational leadership.
This article was translated from L'Orient-Le Jour.
